Chengdu 1: Cedar Grove, NJ

Northern Jersey is lucky enough to have several Chinese restaurants specializing in Shanghainese cooking.  Most notably for me are China 46 in Ridgefield, and Petite Soo Chow in Cliffside Park.  Hunan Cottage, in Fairfield, does a good job as well.  That's all fine and dandy, but when you want the spicy kick of authentic Sichuan cooking, where do you go?  Until recently, you went to Wu Liang Ye, in New York City, and you were treated to world-class Sichuan cooking.  But these days, with the recent arrival of Chengdu 1 in Cedar Grove, you've got a fantastic option on this side of the river. 

t:e reader Curlz emailed me a few months ago to tip me off.  About a month later we went rolling into this BYO on a Sunday night, with high expectations.

To our surprise, there was a line of people waiting for tables.  I'll cut right to the service that night and say that it was certainly struggling, no doubt due to the huge crowd.  We ordered two starters and two entrees, figuring two courses would be served.  I can appreciate that at some restaurants like this, food will come out when it's ready.  That's fair enough.  But when your entrees come out first, one at a time, with 10 minutes between each, and then your starters never come out, something is going horribly wrong. 

Anyway, the service has been better on subsequent visits.  And it's never been quite as crowded.

The only important thing is the food.  Chengdu 1 is producing Sichuan food that rivals that of the best Sichuan restaurants in NYC.

Spicy wontons come in a pool of chili oil (oil is a key ingredient in Sichuan cooking) with an impressive amount of raw garlic. A real winner.

An appetizer of Chicken Ding was ordered on two different visits and came out differently each time.  The first time the chunks of chicken were served in a chili-oil based sauce.  The second time they were served in what was likely a sesame paste sauce (not peanut butter, as people tend to think, although it is similar in flavor).  As far as the type of meat in this dish, my guess is that the chicken doesn't even know he has these parts.  Good stuff.  Muscle tissue no doubt, and not offal, so don't worry.

But if it's offal you want, it's offal you'll get.  They have a good a version of Ox tongue and tripe as I've ever had.  Just enough Sichuan peppercorn to numb your lips, and a generous pile of shaved stomach lining and tongue.

A twice-cooked pork pork dish called "sauce salted pork" blew my mind, man.  Wonderful fatty slices of pork belly served with hot green peppers.  Spicy, fruity, fatty, and perfect with Riesling.  Wu Liang Ye has an identical dish, but a horrible wine list.  Since Chengdu 1 is BYO, it has the best wine list in the state.

Some sort of dried beef dish also pleased, although I forget the name of it.  "Spicy beef", or something like that.  China 46 has a similar dish on occasion.  The flavors in this dish are reminiscent of Indian dishes, with what I assume are cumin and possibly coriander.

Luffa, a cucumber-like vegetable, normally dried and used to scrub ones skin, was worth the additional coupla bucks.  This reminds me that I have to order more vegetables when I go back.

Ma Po Tofu does not fail you here.  Again, I've not had versions much better than this.  It's a bowl of tofu and minced pork with a ton of mouth-numbing flavor (those Sichuan peppercorns in action again).  How they get so much flavor into a bowl defies the laws of physics.

Their version of Shrimp Balls (pictured at the top of this post) was adequate.  China 46 makes theirs with broth in the middle.  Very juicy and flavorful.  Chengdu 1's were more like shrimp toast.  Tasty, don't get me wrong, but not up to China 46's standards.  Perhaps this is a Shanghainese dish?

Unfortunately, the menu doesn't clearly state what is authentic Sichuan-style cooking, and what are piles of sweet non-food crap that many people seem to like (you are free to have lousy taste, but there's a chance I'll make fun of that taste).  In general, the orange colored parts of the menu are the real deal.  When in doubt, look for items in the section of the menu that you're considering:  if you see "sea cucumber", you're in the right place.  If General Tso pops up, look elsewhere.  The dish is described as "Western Style"?  Nut-uh.  Move on.  Nothing to see here.  Conversely, you can ask your server if what you're ordering is authentic.  I've had luck with that, but I can appreciate that all servers are different.

The Christmas music playing over the system was clearly a nod to the famous late-July Christmas celebration.  A very popular holiday in Chengdu.

Our most recent meal was on a Sunday afternoon with a couple of friends.  Even though it was lunch and should have been a casual meal of a few dishes, I ordered like it was 1999, as I'm wont to.  We had way too much food, but the bill still came out to 40 per couple.  If you translate this meal into a regular, normal, human dinner situation, you'll find that it represents a great value, especially when you factor in the quality of the food here.

Chengdu 1 : 89 Pompton Ave (behind the old theater) : Cedar Grove, NJ : 973.239.7726 : BYO

and at 880 N. Delsea Dr (Doubletree Shopping Center) : Glassboro, NJ : 856:589:8898

Comments

[karen]

Was there a little over a month ago. Can't recall what we had.. Some kind of spicy noodle appetizer that was really good. Salt and Pepper shrimp were excellent and then a dish with pork that was a stew..also very good.
Would definitely go back again.

[mike]

The last solid Sichuan meal I had was at Wu Liang Ye, and unbelievably that's already been many years ago.

Hopefully I'll get to Chengdu 1 soon, as it's been far too long and this place is far too local for me to miss.

BTW, kudos to Tommy for stepping it up with the photography. One of your finest efforts to date, well done!

[Ken]

Was there on Friday night. Had the baby wontons pictured above. WOW they were great in the chili oil and garlic. I poured the leftover sauce over my rice :)
I gotta go back and try more...

[tommy:eats]

thanks for the kind words, mike.

I continue to hope that the pictures aren't important to my readers. It's the words that should matter. I don't bother with taking photos of every single morsel that I put into my mouth primarily because I don't like making a spectical of myself when in public at a restaurant, but also because most food isn't all that interesting to look at. So don't get your hopes up for more or better pics. :)

[Ken]

has anyone been to Chengdu 46 in Clifton? Just wondering how it compares...

[tommy:eats]

Ken,

Chengdu 46 (unrelated to Chengdu 1) serves americanized food that is only vaguely reminiscent of actual chinese food. Chengdu 1 is a restaurant specializing in authentic, regional chinese cooking.

they don't compare.

[tommy:eats]

Actually Ken I'm probably a little out of line. I haven't been to Chengdu 46 in about 10 years. But from what I remember, and what I've heard reinforcing that memory, it's "upscale" sichuan-style cooking. i'm pretty sure it's dumbed down. and they aren't BYOB, which is a strike against them right out of the gate.

[mike]

I must admit, I didn't really care for the twice cooked pork. While I found the overall flavor of the dish to be tasty, I didn't like the pork itself.
I found the pork to be too fatty not to mention chewy and tough.
I'm not sure if I just got unlucky, but I was unimpressed by this dish.

On the flip side, I got the shredded duck with szechuan flavor. I felt that this dish was exceptional. The duck was cooked perfectly with a slight smoky flavor. The dish was deliciously spicy--well balanced by a touch of hoisin sauce.

I'll definitely go back and try other dishes. I was just disappointed by the pork after reading multiple positive reviews about it.

[tommy:eats]

regarding the pork...fatty? chewy?!? sounds perfect!! :D

a quite boring story: the first time i ordered twice cooked pork, a few years back at Grand Sichuan on 2nd and 53rd or whatever it is, i was horrified when i was presented with a pile of fatty bacon. in fact, my friend and i joked about it for years, and never revisited that dish.

at some point, i ordered another pork dish, this time at Wu Liang Ye, and there it was again. however, this time i really warmed up to the dish. from that point there was no looking back.

Wu Liang Ye now calls it "Streaky bacon (or pork)". i guess the "fatty pork" that they used to go with was putting off some customers.

I haven't yet had duck at Chendgu 1. I've been looking forward to the tea smoked duck though.

[Adam]

If you like the twice cooked pork try the "Sauce Salted Pork" dish. Similar (or same) pork from the twice cooked pork but crispy fried almost like American bacon and served with fermented black beans, Chinese celery, Sichuan peppercorns and chili oil.

The spicy fire-roasted peppers with the sweet soy vinagrette is killer as a vegetable side dish.

Also, if you ask for a side of chili oil, they give you a dark-roasted style that tastes pretty ridiculous.

[tommy:eats]

adam, i've been eying that selection and your description makes it sound excellent. this is pretty much a done deal at this point. perhaps tomorrow even. thanks!!!

[Ken]

Thanks for the info on Chengdu 46 - decided to skip it. From their website, it looks like they are selling atmosphere and "pretty" food more than authenticity. Went back to Chengdu 1 Tuesday and had the spicy baby wontons (again -- they rock!!), Dan Dan Noodles, Mah Po Tofu (good and spicy), and loofah sauteed with garlic sauce (sweet and delicious). And yes, the BYOB is nice - keeps the tab down.

[mike]

I realize this isn't a chengdu 46 topic, but since there's been so much talk about the place, I must say that they do an exceptional job with peking duck.
Everything else is more or less standard, but I've always been a fan of their peking duck. It's consistantly well prepared.

That being said, it's really an Americanized Chinese restaurant that happens to pitch itself as more of an upscale place that serves alcohol. They also have a sommelier to guide you into an appropriate wine selection.

(somehow tommy, I sense you snickering about that last part.)

[tommy:eats]

actually they pitch themselves as serving "Truly authentic Sichuan cuisine."

I may have bought that in the 80's when they opened, but surely by now, anyone who cares, knows better.

Then again perhaps they're serving the type of food served at banquets in Sichuan, which would make their claim accurate. Regardless, it's not very good.

[Ev]

Last night 7 of us went to Chengdu. We had 15 plates (as you'll see from the list, we had dupes of a couple of dishes), and I can honestly say it's the best Szechuan food I've ever eaten. I've already been berated for waiting so long to get there, and now I understand why. GO!
And for those of you who, like me, don't eat a lot of spicy food b/c you don't enjoy it, let me assure you that you won't have a problem here. I had some of each of these dishes, and all you have to do is avoid eating the peppers (dried or fresh), and you'll be fine. And blown away by the incredible flavors! I promise.
And don't forget to BYO! I found Dr. Loosen to be a great match for everything we tried. ;-)

-Spicy dumplings x2
-Scallion pancakes
-Oyster soup
-Mo Po Tofu
-Spicy Dried Lamb*
-Dried Beef (totally different from the lamb)
-Salt and pepper shrimp x2
-Crispy fish (striped bass)
-Eggplant stuffed with pork (with PORK!!!)
-Snow pea shoots
-Shredded duck
-Sauced Salted Pork (aka plate of bacony goodness--thanks for that rec, Adam!)
-Spiced? Spare Ribs

*If I HAD to pick my favorite, this is the dish

[tommy:eats]

tommy,

Oy, I ordered the "Lightly fried spicy chicken" today. From the correct part of the menu. It was unremarkable and seemingly Americanized. do skip this one.

[tommy:eats]

thanks, tommy.

[tommy:eats]

my pleasure.

-tommy

[karen]

Nice article in the NY Times on Chengdu 1.

Jeesh..now everyone knows!

[foodie]

Thanks Tommy...Great Find!! IMO it is the best Chinese in NJ.

It's not perfect and I wish it were closer, but it is worth the trip. If you like your food spicy then you will feel as if this place was created just for you. The selection of non spicy morsels is also considerable.

In the land of mediocrity Chengdu 1 is a very pleasant surprise.

Finally a reason to stay in NJ.

[Ev]

T-
Since it's your fault that we tried (the unrelated) Chendgu 23 last week, now it's your fault that we were back at Chengdu 1 tonight. Gotta tell you...every dish was SPOT. ON. When Lien is in the kitchen, all is right with the Sichuan food.
8 of us (2.5 kids) ordered most of our usual dishes:
-Long beans
-Ants on a tree
-Salt & Pepper Shrimp
-Double-cooked pork (belly) w/fermented black beans
-Lamb in special pepper sauce (our go-to dish at C1)

Plus a couple of NEW ones from their new winter specials menu, which is chock full of interesting things like:
-Spicy Baby LAMB dumplings
-BBQ LAMB ribs (which weren't ribs, but full LAMB chops and worth the 9.95 and then some)

Have I mentioned that I love lamb? Well, I do. These dumplings are bigger than the spicy baby dumplings we normally get, and are served 'dry' (they're steamed) with the sauce on the side. The sauce is more vinegary than the other dumpling sauce, but terrific. These were spiiicy in a VERY. GOOD. WAY.

The 'ribs,' as I mentioned, weren't ribs, but full chops, including the eye...DElicious.

We were early birds (5:15) but by the time we left the place was near full, mostly with Chinese people, which my mom needed to mention "is a good sign." This from the vegetarian who was swooning over her hot pot...

We love C1 when it's firing on all cylinders. REALLY love it. I think the key might be to pick up a double order of lamb w/cumin sauce and one of soup dumplings from C23, and take those to C1 for the balance of the meal... ;-)

[bobdig986]

If you are a fan of Szechuan style food try China Chalet on Columbia Tnpk in Florham Park for truly authentic cooking from that province. My wife hails from Chengdu and we are regulars there for several years and have never been disapointed.

[tommy:eats]

bobdig986,

I've been reading about China Chalet for some time, and I hear positive things.

I always got the impression that it was another place that has great authentic sichuan food, but it might be hard to get, or identify from the menu, if you're not Chinese.

I so miss China 46, where the authentic stuff was right there on the menu. No messing around, no General Tso's chicken to navigate around.

Thanks for the reminder on it. I'll have to get down there to give it a shot at some point.

If you happen to come back to this blog to see this, can you offer some recommendations?

[tommy:eats]

OK, so their menu lists "Lobster w. Yibin City Spice." A reason for the trip alone.

This is an excellent dish at NYC's Wu Liang Ye, which I've gone on about on this blog. I'd love to try the NJ version.