Two chinese joints and a "pan-Asian" place: Shanghai Cafe, Chengdu 1, Wild Ginger

A reader here at t:e a reader has been talking up Alen Lee's  Westchester restaurants (Westcheraunts, if I may).   When the news that Mr. Lee was opening a place in Ridgewood, NJ, the reader was very pleased indeed.

For my part, I was skeptical right out of the gate.  Mr. Lee's restaurant are best described (and self-described) as "pan-Asian."  To the best of my knowledge, that means various Asian cuisines on a single menu, tamed, with a some sugar added for American palates.  I used to get a bit excited for this back in the 90's, when it all seemed new.  Not so much anymore.  I find the food too safe (chicken breast?), too sweet ("glazes" and whatnot), and just not terribly exciting (no tripe on these menus, that's for sure).

Well I finally got around to sampling some of the food at Wild Ginger (not related to Englewood's Japanese restaurant of the same name, but sister restaurant of Hoboken's), and boy oh boy, I'm big enough a man to admit when I'm right, and was I.  It was the first day of what turned out to be a three day Asian craving.  Suffice it to say the craving would have not lasted so long if I didn't dick around on the first two days.

In all fairness, we had the food delivered from Wild Ginger.  Some might argue that this isn't a good barometer, but I think it's a fine barometer, and delivery saves me being subjected to the parking and amateurish service issues that come with most places in Ridgewood.

First up were the "sichuan dumplings."  Doughy skins, flavorless filling.

Next was the chicken with string bean and garlic sauce.  That sounded safe enough.  Maybe it was too safe.  It was near-flavorless.  Chicken breast slices with string beans (they might have been Asian long beans, but I don't think so) and a lightly flavored sauce.

Against my better judgment, we ordered the Pad Thai.  It was one of those "what the hell" moments.  I didn't expect much, and I didn't receive much. Pad Thai is a dish that has many different faces.  It can be light and summery, sweet and gloppy, sweet and summery, acidic and bright, and no doubt a few other ways that I've never had.  But this was just very nothiny.  No peanut flavor (isn't that pretty much a requirement?)  It was herbal, which was nice, for a noodle dish, but not really for Pad Thai.  Again, next to no real flavor to grab a hold of.

With my Asian fix not sated, I headed out to Shanghai Cafe in West Caldwell on day two.  I read somewhere that they might have some Shanghai dishes.  They do, and the ones I had weren't all that good.

This place is essentially pan-Asian, complete with the obligatory sushi bar.

Warning:  iPhone photos ahead.  [iPhone is a great "lifestyle device", but it sure is a crappy camera.  and phone.]

I tried the salt and pepper calamari.  It was barely fried, and barely salted/peppered for my taste.  Chopped peppers and scallions dotted the plate, which were pretty good, although I'm used to garlic and cilantro with this dish.  The calamari wasn't tender, and its lack of color didn't help my mouth's impression of the dish.

I also ordered Shanghai style baby shrimp, sauteed in Shaoxing wine (Chinese rice wine).  It was an extremely simple dish (not a bad thing), with a unique, floral (lavender?) flavor.  However, it was just too much of the same after a few bites.   If I had friends, I'd order it to share.  And I probably wouldn't have a blog.

Strike two.  I couldn't even get on base in the sating-my-Asian-craving game.

At that point I knew what I had to do:  hit one out of the park.  And the place to do that is Chengdu 1 in Cedar Grove.

String beans (real chinese long beans) with minced pork.

Twice cooked pork belly.

Dry and spicy beef.

Shrimp with fresh chilis.

Say goodnight, Gracie.

Wild Ginger : Ridgewood, NJ

Shanghai Cafe : 771 Bloomfield Ave : West Caldwell, NJ : 973.403.8111

Chengdu 1 : 89 Pompton Ave (Pilgrim Shopping Center, behind the theater) : Cedar Grove, NJ : 973.239.7726

Comments

[karen]

Damn Tommy,

I said I was going to eat light until Thanksgiving. Now you're making me hungry for the real deal and I'll have to make a special trip, now.

What is the dish in the picture? Pork Belly? Can't do that.

Any suggestions? med hot -Hot is fine..

[tommy:eats]

anything on the chendgu 1 post here. triple pepper chicken. ox tongue and tripe. snow pea shoots. they have a new shrimp dish (posted on the wall) that is a steal at 16 dollars, and quite good. lamb with special pepper sauce.

[Menton1]

Come on, tommy. You can't savor food in aluminum trays! Think of doing that in Italy!!!

Aside from that, I think your menu choices were really chancy! I never recommended the Pad Thai nor the dumplings here, and I am not surprised that they were lacking.

You might try again if you are so disposed(In person). Try any of the dishes served in the mini-woks, I think they are categorized as "Entree". Not sweet, and uniquely done so they won't pale in comparison to "authentic". Duck Fajitas (weird-sounding but excellent) and Fire Wok are some of the other winners, IMHO.

Also, this is quite an attractive space, and unlike Westchester, a BYOB as well! The tables are reminiscent of the "zinc" bars of Paris.

But sure, Pad Thai here? That's trouble waiting to happen...

[Ken]

all this talk of Chengdu 1 is making me long to return there. Maybe Black Friday... Hmmm
might have to try that new shrimp dish...

back to the discussion of the Ridgewood place: while every restaurant might have a few duds on the menu, what are the chances that Tommy would pick 3 consecutive ones? Sounds like a place to avoid.

[tommy:eats]

as with anything i'd urge people to try these places and make up their own minds. maybe Wild Ginger does have some decent dishes. It's possible. But in looking at the menu I'm hard pressed to come up with anything that seems remotely interesting, so i doubt I'll return. Sorry menton!

let's not forget that these places are enormously popular because people like this stuff. and there's nothing wrong with that. I was reminded of that the other night sitting at Moksha, a decent Indian resaurant in Edison, looking out the window at an insanely crowded Chilis. On my way up to Tomo in Mahwah, I pass Steak and freakin' Ale, which is packed beyond belief. Not to mention an Applebees, TGIF, Macaroni Grill, and probably a few others that I don't even notice. All packed. All filled with people having a grand ol' time.

[karen]

To that group, add The Shannon Rose in Clifton Commons..
I met a friend for a burger , one night, and got limp tepid french fries. YUK... the place was packed..

[Ev]

Karen, I'm curious to know how the burger was! The one time I went, I was pleasantly surprised by it. Don't remember the fries, but I do remember telling Tommy he should check that burger if he was ever in the area...
Do tell!

[Menton1]

Look, don't apologize-- I will continue to like the place for myself anyway!

I do, however, think it's rather unfair to compare WG to Steak & Ale & Charlie Browns!! These are, to my mind, "lemming" places and I'll never understand their appeal, but God Bless, they are cash cows.

In WG, imho, you can't order a standard and then compare it to the "authentic". YOu have to order one of their unique preparations and enjoy it on its own merits. Hence, the ordering suggestions I made above. But is it anything like an Applebees? No way!

[karen]

Ev,

The burger was good, but not memorable.

Not to chnage the subject, but..
Just had a burger at Arthur's in Hoboken the other night, cooked perfectly med rare.. I thought that one was better.

[tommy:eats]

Arthur's burger has always struck me as sort of frozen patty-ish. i went to arthurs perhaps 200 times over the course of a few years in my early adult life, and didn't even like the burger very much then. that's not to say that it's a bad thing to like, but i'm just not, how you say, feelin' it, dog.

the best thing they have is that turkey sandwich. about a pound of processed turkey on pumpernickle with mayo and that sawdust passing for black pepper. de-lish. :)

[karen]

Frozen patty? It sure didn't seem like it..But hey, You're the burger expert.. :-))

[tommy:eats]

karen, i am an expert only in my own taste. even that i question on a regular basis. keep eating what you like.

will you at least give me that the patty is thin, very (too) regularly shaped, and too small for the kaiser roll it's served on? :)

[Daniel]

All this talk of burgers sent me on a short trip to The Porchlight Grill for a good burger. Alas, my trip was in vain. So where is the closest goo burger? Closest to Ridgewood, that is.

[tommy:eats]

dude, all you had to do was ask and i would have warned you about the Porchlight.

Is Park Ridge close to Ridgewood? If so, the Park Steakhouse (at the bar). Make sure you ask they don't put garlic butter on the bun, if you don't want garlic on your burger. And you're not going to believe it, but Joe's American Grill in the mall isn't half bad.

Do let me know if you find anything else.

[Daniel]

If I am going to drive more than a few minutes, then my default burger destination is Porter House. They make a mighty fine burger, and the beer is fresh too! I will try The Park Steakhouse though. What I am really looking for is a place, three minutes away, that serves great real ale, a great burger, something on the menu that doesn't repulse my wife,and has waiters that actually understand the idea. A guy can dream, can't he?

[tommy:eats]

Daniel, I think you're describing my kitchen. Unfortunately I learned long ago to not mix pleasure with pleasure.

(Park Steakhouse is better, and closer, then the Porterhouse, and a good place for non-red meat eaters)

[Menton1]

Good burger: Well, I am probably more easily sated by a burger than you are, tommy, but: PJ Finnegan's in Westwood, a nice, relaxed place for a good glass of wine or a Guinness, serves up a terrific burger. Small and cute, 2 nice, pubby rooms and a nice bar area. Have you been? WORLDS above Joe's American, IMHO.